In short: Customers. I read this piece in February’s Restaurant magazine by Tony Naylor and couldn’t help but want to share it with you. You join me in A Very Good Restaurant. A waiter is asking the woman at the next table how she liked her main. Basically, she didn’t. There was too much thyme, or was it rosemary? And the lamb was overdone. The waiter smiles dutifully, grimaces sympathetically and diplomatically avoids pointing out that neither herb was present in the dish. I’m not even convinced she had lamb. It was probably venison. [Been there] A few days later, a chef is ruefully describing to me how everyone who…